isicholo (Traditional Zulu HatUsed By The Shembe)

 

Zulu beaded hat

This is a Zulu hat known as Isicholo. It is traditionally and religiously worn by Zulu women. The Shembe women wear it as part of their uniform to signify their marital status and to show respect to their husbands and family as the head is said to be sacred therefore if one is married their head should not be seen.

It is made using non-plant fibre , cloth (to strengthen the brim) and glass beads. Some have a reddish hue made of ochre and fat mixture colourant. 

Techniques used are weaving, braiding , dyeing , stitching beading and trimming.

Isicholo is a traditional Zulu hat, known for its circular shape with a wide brim. It is a significant cultural symbol among the Zulu people of South Africa, and it serves various purposes:

Materials: The construction of Isicholo involves the use of natural materials, and the specific materials can vary:

• Grass: Various types of grass, such as ilala palm leaves, are commonly used to create the base of the hat. The grass is often woven or braided into the circular shape of the hat's crown.
• Reeds: Reeds are another natural material that can be used to construct Isicholo hats. They are often soaked in water to make them pliable and then woven into the desired shape.
• Plant Fibers: Fibers from various plants can be used to strengthen the hat's structure or for decorative purposes.
• Cloth: In some variations of Isicholo, cloth material is used to cover the hat's base. This cloth is stitched onto the hat's structure.
• Beads: Glass beads are used for decoration, meticulously stitched onto the hat's surface to create intricate and culturally significant patterns.

Techniques: The creation of Isicholo hats involves several techniques that have been passed down through generations:

1. Weaving: Weaving is a fundamental technique used to create the crown of the hat. Various natural materials, such as grass, reeds, or palm leaves, are woven together to form the circular shape of the hat's crown.

2. Braiding: Braiding techniques are often employed in creating the base or framework of the hat. Thin strands of plant fibers are braided together to add strength and flexibility to the structure.

3. Dyeing: If the hat is to have colored elements, such as a red hue on top, natural dyeing techniques are used. Plant-based dyes may be made from sources like roots, leaves, or berries to achieve the desired color.

4. Stitching: In some variations of Isicholo, cloth material is used to cover the hat's base. Stitching is employed to attach the cloth to the hat's structure securely. This can also include the addition of decorative stitches or patterns.

5. Beadwork: Beadwork is a crucial technique for decorating Isicholo hats. Glass beads are meticulously stitched onto the hat's surface to create intricate and culturally significant patterns. These patterns often convey stories, symbols, or traditional motifs.

6. Trimming and Finishing: After the main construction and decoration, the hat may undergo trimming and finishing touches. This can involve cutting excess material, ensuring that the hat's brim is even, and adding final embellishments if needed.

These techniques showcase the craftsmanship and artistry of Zulu culture, preserving the tradition and cultural significance of Isicholo hats.

https://www.si.edu/object/nmafa_2001-6-2

https://tribalnow.wordpress.com/2019/09/02/isicholo-hats-zulu-people-kwazulu-natal/

https://www.artic.edu/artworks/229886/woman-s-hat-isicholo